Rain all night continuing into morning. No breakfast notes. We had planned to visit La Boca but postponed due to weather. Instead we visited the Galeria Pacifico shopping mall, which was huge and boring and we ended up wandering up and down Calle Florida, a more interesting shopping experience. Leather goods were purchased. We ate lunch in the basement food court at la Galeria: I got “chop suey” — essentially a light lo mein with chicken — at the Magic Dragon. Cheap, insubstantial, but it worked. I’ve had worse lo mein. Every country seems to have adopted the food court concept, with a variety of global cuisines represented. The one we visited in Bangkok was enormous, and I understand they’re popular in Tokyo. I appreciate a good food court now and then. I’m looking forward to visiting the Northgate food court next time I visit Seattle; it is vastly improved from the days I worked down the mall as a Pay’n’Save stockboy, and now sports a murderer’s row of Ivar’s, Kidd Valley, and Taco Time. TT’s many-orders-of-magnitude superiority over Taco Bell will someday get its own post.
Back to Buenos Aires. On the subte home I snooped on a textmessager, who typed (in Spanish): “I am on subway surrounded by people. But I am not getting la porcina!” No porcina around here, bub.
Wine and cheese at the apartment, but not too much this time. I was looking forward to a visit to La Fabrica del Taco, the all-night taco bar recently featured at the Atlantic, but first: regular dinner. We went to El Preferido de Palermo, which has itself been featured in the U.S. media, e.g. the NYT (one of the photos on the linked page shows our table in the lower right corner), but our local connections vouched for it too. It looks like a general store with high green tables and stools, no chairs, walls packed with shelves of cans and bottles and jars of various foods. Nice casual ambience. And although we were there at 8:45, it was packed, we got the only available table. Seemed like all locals, aside from us. We liked the feel of the place, although it wasn’t what we expected, we thought it would be more traditional restauranty. Turns out there is a more restauranty room with a separate entrance down the street, which we did not know to look for, and a more extensive menu.
No matter, the menu was big enough, and very affordable. The gnocchi had been recommended and that is what everyone but me ordered; I got a salad and the milanese. Consensus was that the gnocci was good but maybe not as good as hoped. Salad was good, standard BA-style salad with lettuce and diced tomato. They forgot my milanese, which was fine, as I really wasn’t particulary hungry after a week of gluttony, plus I scored a few gnocchi, plus: tacos await!
Denied. La Fabrica del Taco was cerrado. No tacos for me! How could the best all-night taco bar in BA be closed!? Outrageous. I still wasn’t really hungry, so I didn’t go away mad, I just went away. Now that I think about it, I still haven’t had a taco since getting back to the U.S. Need to rectify that soon. Wish we had Taco Time in greater DC.
Next: final day in the Southern Hemisphere and the Best Airplane Food Ever.