Category Archives: Cajun

BB’s Cafe (Houston)

The self-described “Home of Tex-Orleans Cooking” is about 98% Cajun; the “Tex” comes mostly from its three locations around Houston. BB’s Cafe — named for founder Brooks Bassler — is best known for its unusual variety of po’boy sandwiches, and also for their “Tex-Cajun Virgin” appetizer. It is unclear who, exactly, is the “virgin” (or the “cajun”) because really this is just poutine but with queso instead of curds (hence the “Tex”) plus shards of roast beef thrown in with the rich brown gravy and fries.  I think they call it “virgin” just to get attention, but it doesn’t really matter what you call a mountain of gravy-and-cheese-smothered fries, if you use decent ingredients, it is kind of hard to screw it up.  BB’s doesn’t screw it up, and it all disappeared quickly, straight to our arteries.

The drinks sure aren’t “virgin” — they pack a punch, especially the Hurricane, which was a little too close to a Rum Bubba for my comfort, so I went with a well-assembled sazerac instead.  Etoufee and gumbo also pack a (spice) punch, but our group wasn’t wowed by the quality of those dishes overall.  I enjoyed my Surf & Turf po’boy, with a re-run of roast beef and gravy plus  a scatter of fried shrimp, all delicious except the bread was much too chewy for my not-razor-sharp teeth. You can get fries (regular or Tex-Cajun, whatever that means — spice-dusted I suppose) with most entrees, but since you’re already digesting a pound of “virgin” fries, the tasty fried pickles (and lots of them) are a winning alternative.

Service was great — our group was raucous and demanding and the entire staff handled us with humor and aplomb.  Food overall was decent, drinks were excellent, and the place was packed, so clearly the locals dig it.  Not a bad break from Tex-Mex and barbecue…